Alaska - Cruising The Last Frontier
- Steven Jankovic
- May 26
- 14 min read
As always, I'm completely transparent with these blogs. I traditionally like to start off with an interesting fact about the said destination. In this case, Alaska. As the title implies this voyage was taken by a crusie. I wont get into the cruise liner or any of the festivities or amenities of the cruise. One day I might do a blog on sea and air travel but not today. What is this fun fact I teased you about or peaked your interest with. Well if you read my prior post about London - if you haven't yet you'd be helping a brother out if you check that one out after this. You'd know I'm a homegrown Floridian from the decently safe streets of Orlando and with Port Canaveral being 45 minutes away, after 35 years, I never once been on a cruise. Until now, in Alaska. Had to fly across the continental US to pop my cherry, but hell either go big or go home, right?
Before getting into the skinny of it, I think before traveling or on the way to where you are going you should have an objective. And I'm not talking about just having daiquiris by the pool while reading a book and nothing else. Let me rephrase if that's what you want to do and if that's how you define a successful trip, if that's how you make each day count, give it the green check mark icon and live your best life. But go into a trip with intent. Things you want to see, try, learn. So what did I want to get out of this trip? Well having a curiosity for human behavior I wanted to learn about the people and what would prompt someone to want to stay in Alaska or even move there.
Rather than writing a single blog per city, I've decided to write one long one covering the total experience of all 6 Alaska ports, 1 Canadian port, and 1 glacier. So apologies ahead of time for the length, I bet you never heard an apology for that before, eh eh. Horrible, lame joke, enough of that, counting it down 3, 2, 1 first up at bat is:
Anchorage
Desolate. If I had to describe the city of Anchorage it would be, desolate. The downtown portion anyway, the outer banks, the forrest regions -- national parks. Where I'm sure you can see some beautiful wildlife. Going to a resort to go snowboarding or skiing, river rafting, I'm willing to bet can be amazing. But downtown where you can meet up with other groups in order to get to Seward to depart on the cruise, can feel isolated. So unless you work for a oil company or are in shipping there isn't much to do in downtown Anchorage.
The one place I would go back to Anchorage for is trip to Humpy's. It's a local bar with great energy. Great food, people are very friendly. Now for the fun fact on them. There are hardly any people actually from Anchorage that work there. Most people are seasonal - I'll swing back to that point later on. Or they are in a student exchange program from a nearby or faraway country. Understanding the local life, pretty much non existent.
Seward
Not much to say about Seward other than it's a small port town that's about 2 hours or so from Anchorage. There's a hotel and perhaps people go out there to go fishing or hunting. I'm not entirely sure. Again maybe there's more to the town than just getting on and off of cruise ships but hey I can only write about what I experienced.
Hubbard Glacier
Maybe I'm not the intellectual type, but when I think of one of those Alaskan glaciers I think of large pieces ice falling off the the sides causing massive waves like in those cool videos you see online. Maybe that's an interpolated notion as I did not see any of that. What. A. Gyp. Nonetheless the Hubbard Glacier is a beautiful sight. For being 400 years old, ol' Hubbard still looks awfully good for his age. Taking it in on a clear day maybe far and few between but we got lucky. It was a extremely clear day so the view was spectacular. It is an amazing thought that this large chunk of ice has been frozen and refrozen for hundreds of years. There's something about seeing a, I don't know if you can classify a glacier as a 'monument' but either way, seeing this monumental piece of ice that's been around way longer than you and I have been around and will continue to be around long after you and I. Is truly special and puts time in perspective.
Juneau
I was so looking forward to Juneau and it was, I'm not going to say disappointing because it wasn't, it was just different than what I expected. My main issue with Juneau - and look I get it, I get it - it's remote as hell excluding the gas, oil, and mining sectors, tourism is a large benefactor to Juneau's economy. So my expectations should have been tapered ever so slightly. In my own meaningless opinion the city reminded me of Gatlinburg, TN. If you removed one side of the main strip in Gatlinburg and replaced it with water and crusie ships, ta -- da. It's Juneau. And again this is just my own bullshit, because when you have a port in a otherwise unfrequented part of the city, it only makes sense to have as many tourist outlets as possible so you can bring some souvenirs back to little Timmy.
There are a lot of merchants who will badger you to come into their shop, want to bargain and sell you jewelry. Every other shop is selling the same hoodie or artifact that is routinely 30% off. Now word on the street is there is a lot more to Juneau but you need a vehicle in-order to indulge in what else Juneau has to offer. We did not but so be it.
Back to my point of how workers are seasonal and not from Juneau, Alaska. Remember there are not a lot of natives in these areas. But the question becomes, why come to Alaska? What is about Alaska that would drive someone to stay there or go there when there are so many other places that more readily available and connected to the world. For that, we have to talk the seasonal bartender that we got to chatting with at the Hangar On The Wharf because he was from all place Hollywood, Florida. I travel across the US from Orlando, Florida to Alaska to run into a guy who's lived 2 hours away from me for my whole life. Why did he travel such a vast distance when he could've poured a drink anywhere? If this was a meal the view would be the starter. When you hear talks about being on the edge of the world, looking out into the vast distance in Alaska, you understand what they mean. The views are one in million. There's just nothing like them. So remote, so isolated, so beautiful. Another reason, it is a tourist area so you can make a shit ton of good tips while enjoying the landscape and pleasures that only so many people go and experience for themselves. As we heard numerous times, it was a once and a lifetime opportunity so they took it. And if they are lucky they'd be invited back to work the season again.
The various expeditions are cool. Especially in the cool weather. Role eyes here. Question. What's better than going out on a sightseeing boat tour to go witness Orcas and Sea Lions in the open sea? Going out on a sightseeing boat tour for Orcas and Sea Lions with some local flavors. My choice, Alaskan White Ale. A tried and true habit, a tradition, a custom, or practice, insert whatever word you'd like. But a great way to understand the local culture and agriculture is to partake in locally brewed beers and spirits. Nothing puts you in a locals' shoes than drinking what they would drink after a hard day at work.
Now you can't go to Alaska and not get Alaska King Crab. For that you have to head to Tracy's Crab Shack. This little big restaurant has benches, paper tower rolls, ice cold water in the pipes to wash your hands and when I say 'ice cold' I mean it. It's almost uncomfortably cold becauses the water comes from the water that's right outside their front door. As for the King Crab, there's no finer Alaska Crab than in Alaska. Large thick pieces dunked in sweet butter. Hmmhmm, bitch. After that initial bite it makes you want to shake the hands of the captain and crew on Deadliest Catch to show your appreciate for what they do while indulging in the pleasures from the sea.
Skagway
If I was to paint a picture of Skagway, it would look like...it's like a small cowboy western town meets an up and coming amusement park. It's known and main attractions are the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway that goes up through the mountains into Canada (where you don't need a passport), helicopter rides to go up and land on a glacier, and of course hiking.
The White Pass & Yukon Route Railway is the thing everyone who goes to Skagway does. So why not do it? Why do they do it? Because it's a couple hours off your feet passing through the natural landscape that is Skagway, Alaska. Now there is a lot of history that you'll learn while on the train regarding the passage you're on. Rather than boring you with all the cupious amounts of facts and details, this isn't a seminar, if you want to know go the train station or look it up. But I will say those facts and details will wake you up to appreciate you're taking the train rather than walking and climbing the trail like the OGs did back on the maiden voyage. And along this relaxing train ride are some of the most gorgeous scenery you'll ever see. From the rivers, to the mountains, to the mountains escarpment over looking the town and down to the sea where the cruise ships dock.
Now when you do these type of tours you'll have a guide who'll fire off some corny jokes and one liners like they're doing improv so be prepared. However occasionally you get one that sounds original with good timing, and when that happens their comedy can be rather refreshing. We had a good one. Hell, when you got a tour guide who encourages you to visit and drink with his girlfriend who works at a brothel, that's the Red Onion Saloon Brothel, again if you can makes jokes about that you're in good hands and it's going to be a good day.
Speaking of brothels and drinking. The Red Onion Saloon Brothel is a fun experience if you're in the need for a escape. And no, it's not the sort of brothels that you see in Game of Thrones. This one is classy and fun, in all respects staying in spirit with the original saloon during the gold rush days. While the girls are running up and down the stairs having their fun, enticing the out of towners to wonder up the stairs and behind the curtain to see the museum of artifacts and a show. But if you choose to stay in the bar and want some local favorites. I'd recommend the Margherita Pizza and a Spruce Tip Blonde. That sounds like a madame. Which could be fun on a Friday night, pizza and a Tip Blonde on your lap, but that sort of thing is illegal in most states so your game better be sharp. No a Spruce Tip Blonde is a local beer from the Skagway Brew Co. that's just as sweet as any tall blonde out there.
Our bartender was homegrown right out of Skagway. With harsh winters and summers are based around tourist. Why would she stay in Skagway? Because in the summer it's nice, it's home and always will be. She works the bar, her husband works for the city. It's home, during the winters they get away but after that, they are back were they've always been. Doesn't get more understanding than that.
Sitka
If you've seen The Proposal then you know Sitka, Alaska. Unfortunately what you seen in the movie is not what I saw in Sitka. They must of shot that movie in the few days of the year that it doesn't rain because it rains roughly 250 days a year. We enjoyed Sitka on one of the 250 days that it rains. Starting with taking the tender from the ship to the mainland. A not so smooth journey to say the least. If motion sickness is a real thing for you then sitting this one trip out would've been in your best interests.
But once to Sitka and taking a school bus ride to the where we were to kayak. This is where I learned a little Sitka trivia for the first time, Sitka was actually the first capital of Alaska. It was here where the transfer ceremony took place after an agreement was reached for the United States to buy Alaska from Russia. But when the fur and whaling trading slowed down and in Juneau the gold business went uh booming, the mining and shipping industry skyrocketed naturally more people flocked to Juneau it became more populated thus the state capital.
The small town vibe is the vibe in Sitka. 2,800 square miles of land so seeing the same stuff over and over is bound to happen. It rains and it's small why do people stay? Becuase it's home and that's all there is to it. I think you're starting to see a theme beginning to form.
Water sports is a very common thing when you live by the water. Now that's not news, but experiencing it is. Kayaking on the Sitka Sound is nothing but tranquility. Peacefulness, except for the occasional sea plane taking off, which by the way watching the take off while on the water is one of the coolest sights ever. Paddling through the small tides, seeing the wildlife in the raw, giving your fellow tourist a simple wave or headnod while they enjoy their fly fishing expereince. It's like resort life without the resort. Now downside to this Alaska thing. Prices for goods at your typical supermarket or sundry store are exorbitantly high. When shipments of milk take weeks not days, just imagine the aggravation fee that you'll have to pay. Sitka isn't the only one, Skagway and all the other cities are the same. Unfair yes, understandable more so, but that's life on the Last Frontier. Eat what you catch, pay for what you don't.
Ketchikan
Ketchikan. It might sound like I'm beating up on Ketchikan but hey, it's my opinion and my opinion don't mean shit. But if I painted Juneau as souvenir central, Ketchikan is where it was conceived. It's a bigger port so more people from all over the world wonder the open streets. Thus the souvenir shops, the mugs, the rugs, the half cut rocks all one of a kind until you walk three stores down and see the same thing at the next place.
I do have to say, in Alaska, but this is true anywhere. Some bars/restaurants are doing themselves a disservice in terms of interior decor. They need Jon Taffer and the crew of Bar Rescue to give them a total make over. A lot of them have those like 80's looking tables, thin carpets that are torn in the corners. Maybe it's the cold weather and the foot traffic from the pier that the owners don't feel the need to invest into the overall theme and presentation of their establishments. However, when they are charging market value for lobster or crab legs even though you're in Alaska it's still something to not want to order a particular item because of the atmosphere and ambiance doesn't match the menu.
Ketchikan felt like a town that never really tried. It's being itself, but not putting in any effort either. That might be part of the charm that I'm missing and/or never understood. However good things do come from misunderstandings. What it is, I'm not sure yet. I'll just have to pontificate the imperturbable and self possessed aura that is Ketchikan while I enjoy an Alaskan White.
Vancouver
It was nice to have a sea day after the experience of Ketchikan. It almost acted as a reset when arriving into Vancouver. This being my first time in Canada, the previous attempt did not go so well, that's another story for another time. My initial reaction to Vancouver was it's much cleaner and safer than New York and Chicago. It's a beautiful grand city, tall buildings, plenty of stores and restaurants that run along the safe streets. I mean that literally, while walking down these streets you never feel like you're going to be mugged. And this is coming from someone who is hyper-observant and on guard in protective mode when in a strange place.
A very cool sight to see, over looking the water is the Olympic Cauldron, where they light the torch for 2010 Winter Olympics. Along with the Digital Orca Sculpture and the Convention Center if you're in town for a conference or whatever. And if you want to grab some chow while having a view of these wonderful artifacts, the Cactus Club Cafe is where you want to go. Now be sure you choose the correct Cactus Club cause there's like 3 or 4 of them around this gorgeous town. If you do decide to stop by the sushi is impeccable, specifically the Tuna Temaki. If you're willing to stay with fish as I did, the Baja Fish Tacos is a banger. Crunchy Cod, pico de gallo, how can you go wrong?
Now normally I don't favor big cities. I really don't. It's weird, it's not the 'big city' vibe that I mostly find off putting. I think cities that are nice and safe, clean, can be really fun to be in. I do enjoy walking down those streets and have the variety of shops and restuarants, markets. The thing I really don't like about them, actually two things, now that I'm thinking about it. They're expensive. On average anyway they are more expensive so there's that. But also I find living in the cities, claustrophobic. But that's my own shit. Vancouver had space and there are parks so seeing green is possible. Also the suburbs are not far away from the city so really if you prefer the house, yard or have some ancreage you can and only be 10 - 15 minutes away from the city. All in all Vancouver checked a lot of boxes for me and it's differenty a place I'd like to revisit and spend more time exploring.
Final Thoughts Of The Last Frontier
Setting out I had the nagging question, why would someone want to live or even continue to live in Alaska? Why would someone purposely go out of their way to go work in one of the most isolated parts of the world? It's isolated in terms of geography. It's the biggest state in size, but most of it is uninhabitable. But not isolated when it comes to people. Alaska brings people together. Natives, outsiders, tourists. It brings people together. I think it's the only way people could have survived up there. But retrospection of Alaska's geography and social functions still doesn't answer the question. The only thing I can conclude is, pure wonder. Wonderment is a hell of a thing.
CoolWorks is a website where you can get seasonal work and our train tour guide was one of them. Again why would you spend your youth in a remote part of the US talking to strangers on a train? The once in a lifetime opportunity. The opportunity to have some of the most beautify scenary as your office. Opportunity to meet new people. To experience a place on earth that very few people would understand until they not only see it, but feel it for themselves. The word 'serenity' came up when people spoke of Alaska. I think it's because it's so isolated that the only thing you can do is to be absolutely present. Meaning you, your kids aren't on their phones, their ipads, not worrying about your work, your boss or your team's bullshit. For the time that you are there you are able to take in and be free from distractions.
Getting around the US is pretty easy. But to get to some of the cities in Alaska it takes effort. A plane ride or an ungodly long drive. If you're in said car some cities require you to hop on a ferry. A sense of adventure in other-words is what is needed in someone's DNA to live there or to go work there and travel there. It's that same need for adventure that propelled Alaska forward. It's the same sense of adventure and wonder that cause people to go to Alaska for new beginnings.
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